How do I prevent the edges of
my needlework piece from raveling?
I recommend that you baste the edges of your fabric
to prevent raveling as you sew.
Back
to top
How do I "read" a
needlework pattern?
A design graph is made up of many squares. The intersections
of the squares are the "holes" in your fabric.
When stitching on linen, your embroidery floss will
cross over two thread of the fabric (in most cases).
Each square represents a stitch placed over these
two threads.
If a square contains a symbol, it means you are to
place a stitch in the corresponding square on your
fabric. Each symbol represents a particular color
of embroidery floss to use for that stitch. See your
color code that comes with your pattern.
There are many different kinds of stitches that may
be used to complete a design. The differences in how
these stitches may be represented on your pattern
are explained and illustrated with each design.
To know where to place your stitch, you must count
the "holes" in your fabric. Remember, for
linen, this means you must count two holes to complete
each square. (Unless your pattern indicates otherwise).
Back
to top
How do I begin stitching a needlework
design?
When I cut my fabric, I usually leave an extra 3"
on each side of the design. To begin a new piece,
I will count down 3" from the edge, and then
over or down the required number of fabric holes as
indicated on the pattern to begin the design.
Back
to top
Should I use a hoop to hold my
fabric while stitching?
To me, using a hoop is an individual preference.
Although many people do not recommend the use of a
hoop when stitching on linen, I personally have always
done so. My advice, if you decide to use one, is to
secure your linen rather loosely when using the sewing
method. If you are using a stick and stab method,
it helps to keep the tension more taut. When creating
areas of satin stitch, a hoop is beneficial to keep
stitches even. I prefer a small wooden hoop and always
remove it when not working on the needlework piece.
I have never had a problem with any permanent marks
left on the fabric when the hoop is used in this manner.
It is also easier to handle my piece when I have a
hoop to hold onto. If you check the marketplace, there
are scroll rods to mount your work on. These rods
can be attached to a lap or floor stand for your convenience.
Back
to top
How long should I cut my thread
and what is the best way to thread my needle?
Embroidery floss is a twisted 6 ply thread. I cut
my floss between *18" to 20" long. This
will reduce fraying of the floss as it is pulled through
the holes in the fabric many times over, as well as
helping to keep the floss from twisting. If you do
find your thread twisting, simply hang it upside down
and let the weight of the needle untwist it for you.
After you have cut your floss, separate it into the
number of strands suggested in your pattern for stitching.
There is a commercial product called "Thread
Heaven" which is a thread conditioner. I have
used it in embroidery, sewing, and beading very successfully.
It is very good when using silk threads as silk is
easily frayed by rough fingers. I suggest you try
it on your cotton floss also if you are having problems
with knotting or fraying, although I would follow
directions and not use too much.
If your pattern calls for two or more strands of
floss threaded together in a needle (sometimes referred
to as blended colors), I cut the thread the usual
18" to 20" long and thread them together
in the usual manner.
* If your patterns calls for two strands of the same
color, I cut the floss twice the normal length and
proceed as follows: take the single long strand and
fold it in half. Thread both CUT ends through the
eye of the needle. Insert the needle up through the
fabric and back down in the appropriate holes as you
do in a normal stitch, but do not pull all the way
through. Instead, insert your needle through the loop
on the back of the fabric which was formed by your
thread. This is called the LOOP METHOD which I have
found to be a real time saver in that you don't need
to secure your floss both at the beginning and the
end of your thread.
 |
Illustration of Loop Method
|
Back
to top
How do I start and end my threads
when stitching?
There is more than one way to accomplish this. The
first, I mentioned above is the LOOP METHOD. This
is only useful when two strands of the same color
are required, but there is an exception. You can actually
use this method when using any even amount of threads.
I use it successfully in areas that require four threads,
such as in a Satin Stitch. When used in this manner,
you can also use multiple colors. My favorite way
of beginning a length of thread if the Loop Method
does not apply, is to hold back approximately an inch
of thread on the back and then secure it with the
first several stitches you make. To end a length of
thread, I run it back through several of the laid
stitches on the wrong side of the design.
Back
to top
How is stitching on linen different
from stitching on other fabric such as Aida Cloth?
Stitching on linen is usually worked over two threads
on linen. There are occasions where you will stitch
over only one thread. This is not difficult to do
once your eyes adjust and makes for a smaller finished
stitch, sometimes called Petite Stitches. Oftentimes,
stitching over one thread is used within the same
pattern as are stitches over two threads.
It is more difficult, but not impossible, to create
quarter, half, and three-quarter stitches on cloths
such as Aida. Because of linen's weave, these stitches
work beautifully, as do the many Specialty stitches
that you can create to enhance your design.
Back
to top
Why are Designs From Pamela's
designs worked on linen?
I began using linen when I discovered samplers. Most
historic samplers were completed on linen. As I became
used to working with this fabric (which is really
quite easy although it might seem intimidating), I
preferred it over any other.
Back
to top
How do I prevent my fabric from
soiling and should I wash my finished needlework?
I suggest washing your hands before beginning any
sort of needlework to rid them of any oils and dirt
that might rub off onto your piece. It is wise to
keep your work protected by placing it in a bag or
drawer. If you will not be working on it for some
time, there are archival, acid free products you may
purchase to store your needlework in. Always roll
your piece, never fold it for storage.
Again, washing your needlework piece is a controversial
issue. I personally have always done so. Please note:
If you are stitching with floss other can cotton,
especially silk floss, please follow the manufacturer's
directions. Silk floss should be dry-cleaned. Over-dyed
threads may bleed when washed. If there is ever a
question, please consult the manufacturer of your
particular fabric or floss before proceeding. If you
do choose to wash your needlework, I recommend using
cool to lukewarm water with mild soap, not detergent.
Never wring out, but lay the piece flat between two
layers of thick towels and ROLL out excess moisture.
Then take two fresh, dry layers of thick towels and
lay the piece, right side down. I personally then
use an iron on linen setting and iron the back of
the piece to take out most of the moisture and wrinkles.
I then air dry my needlework before framing..
Back
to top
How should the back of my needlework
piece look?
When you begin stitching, never knot your floss,
rather secure it in one of the methods I've suggested
previously. Leave at least one inch of thread at both
the beginning and end of your stitches to secure and
then clip the excess neatly. (Unless using the LOOP
METHOD to begin your stitches, then clipping will
be unnecessary.) Do not skip an empty area of fabric
to get to another area of the same color, unless you
are skipping six threads or less. This is especially
true of linen when the threads may show through on
the right side because of a looser weave. It is best
to end your thread and start again. If you follow
these general directions, the back of your needlework
will be much more attractive and will not leave "lumps"
and unsightly threads showing through to the front
of your beautiful new piece.
Back
to top
How do I keep my needlework projects
organized while stitching?
This is a personal preference. In the past I have
used envelopes for each different color. I have also
used the small "snack" bags you may purchase
in your grocery store. You can write the color numbers
directly on the plastic with permanent marker pen.
Floss project cards are available from different manufacturers.
As always, I recommend that anything which will be
stored for a length of time be stored in acid-free
materials.
Back
to top
What about Specialty Stitches?
What are they? Are they difficult?
Anything can be intimidating if you let it be. In
the beginning, I did only cross-stitch. Cross-stitch
by itself is very relaxing. I found the simple motion
of working the needle back and forth, in and out,
calming. It is more complex when using many color
changes, of course, but I design mostly folk art pieces
which have a more primitive look to them and require
less colors.
I define Specialty stitches as "embroidery-type"
stitches. They are often stitched over four threads,
and multiple directions may be used in one stitch.
There are many variations and degrees of difficulty.
Specialty stitches are really simple once learned.
I suggest you try them, this will add to the enhancement
of any piece you are stitching. Some stitches are
more complicated than others, but I try to provide
excellent illustrations along with my patterns. If
you purchase one of my "Wildlife Sampler"
patterns, you may substitute cross-stitches for many
of the Specialty stitches, if preferred.
Back
to top
How do you explain your "degree
of difficulty?"
A piece is listed as beginning when it is cross-stitch
with some simple backstitch.
A piece is listed as beginning to intermediate when
it is designed with mostly cross-stitch with a few
areas of Specialty stitches. Each listing will show
what stitches are used in the individual piece.
A piece is listed as advanced when there are many
areas of Specialty stitches.
Once again, I would like to say that areas of Specialty
stitches can often be stitched with cross-stitches
if you find the Specialty stitches too difficult.
For example, a stitch that is worked over four threads
such as a Rice stitch, can be worked with four cross-stitches
instead. The cross-stitches may not have the same
visual effect that the designer intended, but will
work nonetheless. If you study the history of samplers,
you will find that they are most often stitched with
a variety of specialty stitches. Samplers were originally
intended to be a "sampling" of a young girl's
skills at sewing and embroidering their linens. They
often had to mark their household goods with monograms
out of necessity or for beauty.
Back
to top
If I would like to mount and/or
frame my own work, how do I go about it?
To begin with, always mount your needlework over
an acid-free material. There are many good products
on the market. I do not suggest using sticky-board.
I prefer an acid-free FoamCore board cut to size.
(Samplers are traditionally framed with a half inch
border surrounding the stitched area.) You should
gently stretch your piece over the board and secure
it with galvanized staples or stainless steel pins.
I always remove the pins before framing. You may use
an acid-free tape on the back of your piece to secure
it after pinning. I recommend lacing your piece in
the old-fashioned method. (See photo below.)
Click
on image for larger view
(Image will open in a new window. Just
close new window when you are ready to return to Helpful
Tips.)
Another way is to secure your piece onto another
piece of fabric such as muslin, cotton, or even another
piece of linen first, then stretch it onto the board.
If you prepare your needlework piece yourself and
then take it to a framer, ask for a "museum mount".
If you frame the piece yourself, purchase an acid-free
spacer to put between the glass (if you choose to
use one) and the needlework. Also make sure your mat
is acid-free if you should decide to use one. The
spacers I have used slide directly onto the glass
edges. Take caution not to slice your fingers!
This brings us to the next question:
Back
to top
Should I frame my needlework
piece under glass?
If you want your work to stay clean, you must protect
it. Many people believe that you should not use glass.
I have always preferred to. In the past, I have used
a non-glare glass. I now know that it is best NOT
to do so. Non-glare glass is etched with acid that
can destroy your fine handwork, even though manufacturers
suggest that it won't. I prefer not to take the chance.
In modern households, temperatures and humidity are
kept fairly constant which reduces the chance that
condensation will form between the glass and the needlework.
It is primarily this condensation alone or coupled
with harmful sun rays that might result in ugly stains
and deterioration. If you keep your needlework stored
in a less than stable environment, it might be better
for you not to put in under glass.
Ultraviolet rays can damage your needlework so it
is best not to hang your completed work of art in
direct sunlight. A sunny room is okay, just not direct
sun. It is possible to find UV protected glass or
"plexi-glass" nowadays, although I believe
it is more expensive and scratches easily.
Back
to top
If you have any questions that I have not covered
in this "Helpful Tips" page, please feel
free to contact me
. I will try to find the answer for
you if I do not know the answer myself. I also welcome
your comments and suggestions for my website or new
projects you might like to see. I suggest you might
like to sign up for my Newsletter. I will be providing
you with links to interesting articles and upcoming
projects I am offering for sale. I also hope to promote
a "featured artist" occasionally in my Newsletter.
You can always unsubscribe if you are not happy.
Back
to top
